March 15, 2009

Ahoy from Namaste, Georgetown, Great Exuma

It has been three weeks or more since last I wrote. The time has gone by so quickly. After Pell and Betsy left us in Georgetown we took some time to do a few boat projects and to get to know the Georgetown area a little better. We are meeting some of the cruisers, continuing yoga on the beach, enjoying the weekly dances in addition to our regular activities.

Pat and Bim arrived on March 3rd after a delay caused by snow in Virginia. We had a great time with dear old friends on board. It was good to catch up with Charlottesville news and to spend time together. The 4 of us lived in the same house for 2 years in the late 70s and we easily moved into the space of sharing Namaste together. We relaxed a lot, snorkeled, walked, read, played scrabble, cards and dice games, cooked and spent hours talking politics, children and dreams. We were sorry to see them go after 10 really great days together.

We also watched the first of the two Regatta races together. We viewed the “Around Stocking Island Race” from the top of a hill overlooking both the sound and the harbor sides of the island. The cruisers were not only competing to win first place in the sail race, they were also challenged to a fishing, cooking and photography competition while racing in the regatta. The second of the two regattas was held in the harbor. About 30 boats participated in each. We chose to be spectators as Namaste is set up more for cruising than racing. Racing can be hard on a boat. One of the boats in the regatta blew out a jib sail and two of the boats lost steering. Another ran headlong into one of the spectator boats. We were glad to be sitting on the distant sidelines this time.

We have not moved the boat in 3 weeks and have enjoyed spending some extended time in one place. Beyond enjoying the company of friends I have had some time to paint. I continue to be awed by the beauty of the land and seascape in the Bahamas. We have also been making some new friends. We met a couple who spent 8 years cruising the canals of Europe and also the Mediterranean including time spent in Turkey and Croatia. We just spent the morning with them on Namaste. They told us all about their adventures and how one would equip a boat to travel the canals with all the varied locks, quays, anchorages and other challenges. Susie and Rod spent 6 months in both London and Paris alone. Their courage, spirit of adventure and curiosity about the world is very inspiring. They are both very generous with experienced tips, advice, and knowledge that will serve us well as I am certain an Atlantic crossing is in Namaste’s future. Our meeting has us dreaming about new possibilities in our blue water cruiser.

I have included some pictures of the turquoise colored “internet café”, a great sand sculpture (especially for Pru), the “fleet” at Georgetown and the race around Stocking Island, and the sunset tonight.

We also enjoyed a yet to be explained phenomenon after sunset last night. We were on deck looking for the March 15 shuttle taking off in the southeastern sky. It was twilight time and we could barely make out the light of the shuttle and then the separation of the rockets. I turned to look at the eastern sky, which was quite dark by then and observed a small and yet brilliantly light up “white” cloud. There was much discussion on the cruiser’s net as to the cause of the illumination, from aliens to angels. We will have to go on the Internet later and look it up. None of us in Elizabeth Harbor had ever seen such a thing.

There is not much more news. We are planning to set sail for Long Island on Tuesday. We have some topsides work to do on Namaste and will do that in Thompson Bay. We also lots of beach glass to be collected. Long Island is home to a flock of flamingos. There are also two blue holes and more snorkeling sites there. I will never tire of snorkeling. It is one of the most peaceful and breathtaking activities I have ever experienced.

Peace and love to all

February 23, 2009

Ahoy from Georgetown, Great Exuma, the Bahamas

Hey, how is everybody. Hope you all are doing great! As always we miss you.

We spent the last two wonderful weeks with Chappell and Betsy exploring some of the more remote islands in the Exumas. Pell and Betsy joined us in Nassau for the sail down to Georgetown, Great Exuma. They are the best of traveling companions and we were sorry to see them leave on Saturday.

Over the last two weeks we visited Highborne, Shroud, Warderick Wells, Cambridge, Staniel and Cave Cays and Lee Stocking Island on our way to Georgetown. We sunned, sailed, hiked, cooked, read, played games, explored, laughed and snorkeled together.

Snorkeling was one of the favorite activities especially in Exuma Land and Sea Park cays. Warderick Wells, Cambridge and Staniel Cays offer great underwater exploration. Warderick Wells has many beautiful coral heads. Cambridge is known for its Sea Aquarium, a 150’ wall of coral and reef fish and the Rocky Dundas underwater caves. Staniel Cay is home to Thunderball Grotto, a large cave entered by water and open to the sun at the top. It was used in the set for the James Bond movie by the same name.

In our underwater explorations we saw a diverse variety of fish including blue tang, queen triggerfish, banded butterfly fish, scrawled cowfish, yellow tailed snapper, rainbow parrotfish, squirrelfish, wrasse, hogfish, stoplight parrotfish, barracuda, rock hind, fairy basslet, grouper, damsel fish and many others not yet identified. We also saw 5 lionfish. The lionfish were introduced into the Florida waters from home aquariums. They have poisonous spikes and no natural enemies. The lionfish are growing in population and killing the lovely reef fish. In many areas (except the park) there is a kill on sight request. We also saw strange and colorful corals of all forms including staghorn, elkhorn and finger corals, flower and star corals, tube, branch and leaf corals, brain, fungus and pillar corals and the lovely lavender sea fans.

We sailed into Georgetown on a windy day and a 9-foot swell. It was a very exciting entrance into Elizabeth Harbor. The swell was breaking on either side of Namaste and the wind was blowing the tops off the waves. Elizabeth Harbor runs northwest to southeast with an approach from the east. As we turned the corner south into the harbor we were met with a forest of masts. There are about 300 boats in the harbor at present. We arrived just in time for the yearly Georgetown Regatta and the many events planned by the cruising community to benefit the town of Georgetown.

There are boats that arrive in November and stay all winter, some boats come and go as they visit more remote islands south and then there are those who return each year for the regatta. There is a fully developed community of cruisers here in Georgetown, many of whom have been coming for 20 years. Each morning one can tune into the “Cruiser’s Net”, a volunteer run information network, on VHF 72 for the weather, local business and community announcements and events for the day. Swimmers meet 3 times a week on Honeymoon Beach, there is yoga on Sand Dollar Beach every morning, volley ball behind the Chat and Chill every afternoon, afternoon bridge games, a regular game of Texas hold ‘em, planning events for the Regatta, beach art groups and more. There was a sock hop last Saturday night and another dance planned for this coming weekend.

We are just becoming acquainted with all that is offered by the vast network of volunteers who put in place all the activities. There are folks here that we have met along the way from Deltaville, Beaufort, Charleston, No Name Harbor, Nassau and the Exumas. It is always a pleasure to look about and see friends we have met along the way. We are also just getting to know Georgetown where one can find fully stocked markets, laundry services, shops, restaurants, mechanics, church services, a clinic and a school. Children who live on islands in the Exumas can go to school near home up through middle school and then they go to Nassau to complete their high school education.

Apart from some extended time in Charleston, Key Biscayne and Nassau visiting, touring, provisioning and preparing for the trip south we have been traveling every day or couple of days since we left Deltaville on November 7th. We are planning to be in Georgetown for the next few weeks. I look forward to some extended time to get out my oil paints and settle into a more predictable rhythm. While I am learning to open to the possibilities of each moment, I do adore my creature habits and look forward to a little routine. We also look forward to a visit from Pat and Bim. Can’t wait to see friends from C’ville and to hear all the news!

Toward the end of the month we plan to head east to Conception and Long Island and then turn north to Eleuthera and the Abacos for April and May. In late May or early June we will turn to the east coast and begin our journey north to Maine before heading back into the Chesapeake in the late summer or early fall.

The photos shown are a few of the many fish and corals we saw on our travels, including the lionfish. I am enjoying my underwater camera, but, still not getting the hang of negative buoyancy for sharp, clear images. Chappell took most of the underwater pictures in the blog this time. He has a good eye and a steady hand. Of course my favorite fish are the ones wearing masks and snorkels.

Well that is all for now. We are experiencing a day of high wind and possible squalls so we are on Namaste for the day and I am about to get out the oil paints. Chris is studying for the ham radio test offered this Friday. With his ham license we will be able to get free email service, Windlink, on the boat through the SSB. I look forward to being in touch more readily.

Have a good day.

Peace and Love

February 7, 2009

Ahoy from Nassau,

How is everyone? We are doing great, enjoying ourselves, exploring, adventuring, dancing with the wind, sea and each other.

It is good to make a plan. That way there is some direction upon which to focus activity. On the other hand it is not good to attach too much to that direction or activity because we live in a constantly changing universe. Living on Namaste and taking this journey continues to magnify that truth.

We are back in Nassau for a couple of days. During our lovely week in Warderick Wells we realized that Namaste was due new house batteries. We also knew it would be easier to acquire the batteries here in Nassau than somewhere farther down the Exuma chain. Luckily we were able to get the exact same (almost) batteries on a shipment from Miami the day we called, resulting in a very quick and straightforward exchange (hopefully). And, Chappell and Betsy fly into Nassau today and are saved an extra flight down to Staniel Cay where we originally planned to meet them.

Nassau has been good to us. We ran into some friends from Deltaville and have made new friends as well. Chris was able to work out a problem with our steering. I completed some sewing projects begun in Deltaville and put aside so we could head south. We will also provision here where there are more fresh foods available. All is well.

We hear from the locals that the weather we are experiencing is unusually cold. While we were able to swim and snorkel in warm weather last week, we are in pants, sweaters and socks this week. Nassau Harbor is cloudy, choppy and chilly although that in no way dampens our experience.

When we began this trip I was so new to sailing and living with the wind. When the wind speed rose to 25 or 30 knots I had an immediate conditioned response of fear and anxiety. Is the wind too strong to sail, will our anchor hold? I would also travel down the road of What If for quite a long way only adding to conflicting emotions.

I am still new to sailing and wind at 25 knots is the norm. The Bahamas are quite breezy in the winter months. “Rocky” our Rocna anchor is the champ of anchors and gives us both a degree of security. I am practicing staying present rather than traveling down the What If road. I am finding a more relaxed and unburdened path in the present moment, in each moment that I can be aware and awake. The internal journey is as much of an adventure as the external.

We hope to head again down the island chain of jewels that is the Exumas tomorrow, this time with Betsy and Pell exploring along with us. If you are reading from Charlottesville, give Isaac a hug for us. And if you are in the eighth grade at Tandem, I will be thinking of you during Emphasis Week.

Included are some photos that did not load last time, the painted engine covers and the banaquit birds. There is also a photo taken of Chris and I with Dick the Dog who is famous in Key West for motorcycling, skateboarding, jet skiing and his very cool look.

Peace and Love

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Warderick Wells-Exuma Land and Sea Park

Ahoy,

How is everyone? Hope you all are doing great and finding the same sense of hope now that Barack Obama is our president. We watched with tears of joy as he spoke to US citizens and citizens from all over the world with the message that unifies and signifies the beginning of a paradigm shift that seeks our better selves. We begin to feel both proud and safe again. The Bahamians are so excited about our new president. It has been great to celebrate along with them.

We left Nassau 3 days ago and just woke up to a beautiful day in an anchorage on Warderick Wells, which is part of the Exuma Land and Sea Park. The park covers 176 square miles of land and sea. It was begun in the 1950s and has grown as part of over 700,000 acres conserved by the Bahamas National Trust. The park includes critical habitats and endangered species, including one of the largest breeding colonies of West Indian flamingos, an important sea turtle facility and one of the most successful marine fishery reserves in the world.

We are anchored just off the tiny circle of land called Emerald Rock. It is about 100 yards in diameter and surrounded by coral heads that we will dive on later today. It is our understanding that the fish are so fearless through 50 years of protection that they will swim right up to us. This area is considered one of the most beautiful in the world for reef diving.

Yesterday we took a walk around the island just before sunset. We walked up Boo Hill to the highest point on the island, which is about 80 feet above sea level. While on the deck of the park headquarters looking out over the water and boats I saw a huge spotted eagle ray broach and fully reveal its wondrous body before it splashed back into the water. As we cruised back to Namaste in our dinghy we saw the wing of another ray before it dipped below the surface.
Some of the pictures in the blog include Chris’s hands holding the little Bananaquit birds that are friends of the park service rangers, pictures of the land and seascape surrounding Warderick Wells and the newly painted engine covers.

We are making lots of friends along the way. As we traveled down from Deltaville we meet folks that we see again and again. In Shroud Cay and then again last night we visited with folks on two different boats from Deltaville. We also spent some time with some folks that we met in Nassau and hope to catch up with another couple from Nassau down in Georgetown. The community of cruisers embraces openly and is always helpful and supportive. We have met so many people who are willing to share best anchorages, places to provision, do laundry, get good water and fuel, best snorkeling and so forth.

We are about to go up to park HQ to use the Internet so I am signing off for now. On to snorkeling and hiking the island’s treasure trove of beauty.

Sorry not all the pics loaded and I am running out of time...next time!

Take care all,

Love and Peace

January 13, 2009

Nassau, Bahamas

Hello All,

We raised our Bahamian flag at last! We checked in with Immigration at Chub Cay in the Berry Islands on Janurary 10th and are now situated in Nassau, New Providence.

The weather window we were hoping for on January 5th while in Key Biscayne did not work out. We optimistically made a go of it and began our crossing only to return as the seas had not subsided as predicted and there was promise of a bow-pounding trip to Bimini. Our goal is to travel a more “thornless path” as described by Bruce van Sant in Passages South. Wait and watch. Patience.

With the closing of this window Chappell decided to return to Charleston and later rejoin us with Betsy when we arrive in Georgetown on the island of Great Exuma. Before he left we visited the Miami Sea Aquarium and saw three great shows including dolphins, sea lions and killer whales. Both the trainers and the animals were dynamic performers and we enjoyed them thoroughly.
As we waited we also began listening to Chris Parker on the single sideband radio. Each morning for the last 5 years Chris gets up and translates the weather maps for folks cruising the east coast of Florida, the Keys and the Bahamas. After he gives his report for each area in the Bahamas he takes specific questions from sailors traveling up and down the islands. His predictions are clear, accurate and insightful and we will find his reporting to be a huge asset as we continue our journey.

Chris P. predicted a window for Saturday the 10th of January and we found ourselves preparing again to take the trip across the Gulf Stream. This time we decided to pass by Bimini and go straight to Chub Cay in the Berry Islands to check in with Immigration. It was a peaceful and beautiful 24-hour trip. A light wind, mild sea, blue sky, starry night and a full moon were there to guide us. During my watch at 4 in the morning Namaste was headed right up the glittering path of reflected moonlight on the ocean. Sunday morning I watched as the full moon set and the pink sun rose over the Bahama Banks . Beautiful!

Chris and I spent one night at Chub Cay before continuing our journey to Nassau. A long first day walk through town introduced us to the sights, sounds and smells of Nassau. The sights are black and white, turquoise, and every shade of pastel peach, pink, mint green and blue, and the towering Atlantis on Paradise Island juxtaposed with poverty in the Over the Hill neighborhood in downtown Nassau. The sounds include the musical voices of Bahamians as they go about their day joined with wind, birds, horns, music, laughter, boats and splashing water. The smells are diesel and motor oil near the docks, salty fish on Potters Cay, fragrant hibiscus and bougainvilleas in the gardens, pungent curry and blackened spices wafting from the windows of restaurants combined with salt and fresh air.

We strolled down to the Straw Market where men and women sell all kinds of souvenirs to passing cruise ships. We passed by the duty free diamond and emerald marketers. We stopped for Hagendaas mocha freezes before touring the Bahamian National Gallery of Art. Our old knees and feet hurt and we kept on walking as we enjoyed a taste of what is in store for us over the next months. This week we hope to take in some music and dancing, a beach trip, snorkeling outing, and a trip to the largest aquarium in the world at Atlantis Waterworld. The weather predictions will keep us in Nassau until Saturday or Sunday when we will begin our trek down the Exumas stopping at the Exuma Land and Sea Park before continuing to Georgetown.

Meanwhile we look forward with the Bahamians to January 20th. There is much excitement here with regard to the inauguration of President Obama.

Well that’s all for now.

Peace and Love

January 1, 2009

Key Largo

“……Bermuda, Bahama, come on pretty mama. Key Largo, Montego, baby why don’t we go down to Cocomo. We’ll get there fast and then we’ll take it slow. That’s were I want to go….” The Beach Boys had it right. We used to happily sing this song as a family years ago while gathered at the kitchen table. And now Isaac, Chappell, Chris and I are here on Key Largo together. Dreams coming true. Last Sunday, in Key Biscayne, we were hoping for a weather window to set sail for the Bahamas. We thought we had the south, southeast wind we needed to depart on Monday. We awoke Monday morning and double-checked the weather before our pending departure. Alas, the winds were quickly shifting to the north and the seas were rising. The window closes. Advice from all sources warns never cross the Gulf Stream with wind against current as the seas can build up in no time for a very uncomfortable ride at best.

Being fluid humans, we altered our plans and flowed south another day, another 40 miles to Key Largo. It is beautiful here, warm and sunny. The water is every shade of turquoise and clear. One can easily see the bottom at 15 to 20 feet. The waters east of Key Largo are home to the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park with 178 square nautical miles of coral reef, sea grass beds and mangrove swamps.

It is New Years day and we have been out snorkeling on the reef. The four of us enjoyed a day of snorkeling yesterday and Pell and Isaac took the plunge again today. We observed a variety of coral and fish including parrot fish, barracuda, blue tang, cow fish, trumpet fish, rock beauties, butterfly fish, grouper, ocean surgeon and needle fish. I was swimming along with eyes to the vibrant and lush coral bed when Isaac pointed to a green sea turtle; it’s flippers lifting like wings as it floated above the coral reef. We commented later on the experience of swimming in this fish world, where they display all the grace of sea dwellers as we swim awkwardly among them with our snorkel, mask and fin attachments. Our own underwater ungainliness aside, snorkeling is a purely tranquil experience in what appears an alternate universe hosted by mysterious and elegant creatures.

Later, back at our anchorage and the Internet, television, stereo and phones are off. Chris is reading in the gently swaying hammock. Chappell and Isaac are playing a brotherly competitive game of chess. I have been trying to capture the turquoise green shades of the ocean with my watercolors, a favorite pastime these days. We are well rested and relaxed. We get up and go to bed with the sun. We read a lot, play board games, swim, sail, snorkel and breathe in our surroundings. Chris and I enjoy the exuberant, adventurous and often humorous exchanges with and between Chappell and Isaac. Precious times, very precious times.

This life on the water is like existing in a separate reality, an altered state, an elemental experience. On Saturday Isaac will climb into a rented car and drive for just 2 hours before reaching the Fort Lauderdale airport. We motor-sailed 8 hours to travel the same distance down the coast of Florida. Isaac will soar up the highway not 2 miles from our present anchorage surrounded by all the sounds, smells and sights of our modern culture. He will be in Charlottesville by mid-afternoon the same day. We are living contained and expanded by sea, sky, sun, moon, stars and wind. Since we left Deltaville on November 7th we have traveled over 1000 miles and with each mile we are born back into an intimate relationship with the elements.
It is hard to believe that it was just a year ago that this treasured seed of a vision that was dreamed more than 25 years ago between Chris and I began to truly sprout roots. We have learned and accomplished so much over the last 12 months. We both had very high, though differing, learning curves ahead of us and we continue to grow and learn in each moment, our dream vision manifesting as we set our course each day.

We are looking at another weather window for Monday the 5th of next week. We are experiencing the current front approaching with north winds today and tonight. The winds are shifting to northeast and east over the next two days and then we hope to see the south, southeast winds that will favor our trip east. So we watch and wait for the wind to clock ‘round the compass and the Gulf Steam seas to subside. We hope the window is big enough for us to blow through to North Light, just north of Bimini and then on to the Berry Islands before heading to Georgetown on Great Exuma. We are in a lovely location to watch and wait and always much to do before we go.

Happy New Year to all

Peace and Love