January 13, 2009

Nassau, Bahamas

Hello All,

We raised our Bahamian flag at last! We checked in with Immigration at Chub Cay in the Berry Islands on Janurary 10th and are now situated in Nassau, New Providence.

The weather window we were hoping for on January 5th while in Key Biscayne did not work out. We optimistically made a go of it and began our crossing only to return as the seas had not subsided as predicted and there was promise of a bow-pounding trip to Bimini. Our goal is to travel a more “thornless path” as described by Bruce van Sant in Passages South. Wait and watch. Patience.

With the closing of this window Chappell decided to return to Charleston and later rejoin us with Betsy when we arrive in Georgetown on the island of Great Exuma. Before he left we visited the Miami Sea Aquarium and saw three great shows including dolphins, sea lions and killer whales. Both the trainers and the animals were dynamic performers and we enjoyed them thoroughly.
As we waited we also began listening to Chris Parker on the single sideband radio. Each morning for the last 5 years Chris gets up and translates the weather maps for folks cruising the east coast of Florida, the Keys and the Bahamas. After he gives his report for each area in the Bahamas he takes specific questions from sailors traveling up and down the islands. His predictions are clear, accurate and insightful and we will find his reporting to be a huge asset as we continue our journey.

Chris P. predicted a window for Saturday the 10th of January and we found ourselves preparing again to take the trip across the Gulf Stream. This time we decided to pass by Bimini and go straight to Chub Cay in the Berry Islands to check in with Immigration. It was a peaceful and beautiful 24-hour trip. A light wind, mild sea, blue sky, starry night and a full moon were there to guide us. During my watch at 4 in the morning Namaste was headed right up the glittering path of reflected moonlight on the ocean. Sunday morning I watched as the full moon set and the pink sun rose over the Bahama Banks . Beautiful!

Chris and I spent one night at Chub Cay before continuing our journey to Nassau. A long first day walk through town introduced us to the sights, sounds and smells of Nassau. The sights are black and white, turquoise, and every shade of pastel peach, pink, mint green and blue, and the towering Atlantis on Paradise Island juxtaposed with poverty in the Over the Hill neighborhood in downtown Nassau. The sounds include the musical voices of Bahamians as they go about their day joined with wind, birds, horns, music, laughter, boats and splashing water. The smells are diesel and motor oil near the docks, salty fish on Potters Cay, fragrant hibiscus and bougainvilleas in the gardens, pungent curry and blackened spices wafting from the windows of restaurants combined with salt and fresh air.

We strolled down to the Straw Market where men and women sell all kinds of souvenirs to passing cruise ships. We passed by the duty free diamond and emerald marketers. We stopped for Hagendaas mocha freezes before touring the Bahamian National Gallery of Art. Our old knees and feet hurt and we kept on walking as we enjoyed a taste of what is in store for us over the next months. This week we hope to take in some music and dancing, a beach trip, snorkeling outing, and a trip to the largest aquarium in the world at Atlantis Waterworld. The weather predictions will keep us in Nassau until Saturday or Sunday when we will begin our trek down the Exumas stopping at the Exuma Land and Sea Park before continuing to Georgetown.

Meanwhile we look forward with the Bahamians to January 20th. There is much excitement here with regard to the inauguration of President Obama.

Well that’s all for now.

Peace and Love