February 23, 2009

Ahoy from Georgetown, Great Exuma, the Bahamas

Hey, how is everybody. Hope you all are doing great! As always we miss you.

We spent the last two wonderful weeks with Chappell and Betsy exploring some of the more remote islands in the Exumas. Pell and Betsy joined us in Nassau for the sail down to Georgetown, Great Exuma. They are the best of traveling companions and we were sorry to see them leave on Saturday.

Over the last two weeks we visited Highborne, Shroud, Warderick Wells, Cambridge, Staniel and Cave Cays and Lee Stocking Island on our way to Georgetown. We sunned, sailed, hiked, cooked, read, played games, explored, laughed and snorkeled together.

Snorkeling was one of the favorite activities especially in Exuma Land and Sea Park cays. Warderick Wells, Cambridge and Staniel Cays offer great underwater exploration. Warderick Wells has many beautiful coral heads. Cambridge is known for its Sea Aquarium, a 150’ wall of coral and reef fish and the Rocky Dundas underwater caves. Staniel Cay is home to Thunderball Grotto, a large cave entered by water and open to the sun at the top. It was used in the set for the James Bond movie by the same name.

In our underwater explorations we saw a diverse variety of fish including blue tang, queen triggerfish, banded butterfly fish, scrawled cowfish, yellow tailed snapper, rainbow parrotfish, squirrelfish, wrasse, hogfish, stoplight parrotfish, barracuda, rock hind, fairy basslet, grouper, damsel fish and many others not yet identified. We also saw 5 lionfish. The lionfish were introduced into the Florida waters from home aquariums. They have poisonous spikes and no natural enemies. The lionfish are growing in population and killing the lovely reef fish. In many areas (except the park) there is a kill on sight request. We also saw strange and colorful corals of all forms including staghorn, elkhorn and finger corals, flower and star corals, tube, branch and leaf corals, brain, fungus and pillar corals and the lovely lavender sea fans.

We sailed into Georgetown on a windy day and a 9-foot swell. It was a very exciting entrance into Elizabeth Harbor. The swell was breaking on either side of Namaste and the wind was blowing the tops off the waves. Elizabeth Harbor runs northwest to southeast with an approach from the east. As we turned the corner south into the harbor we were met with a forest of masts. There are about 300 boats in the harbor at present. We arrived just in time for the yearly Georgetown Regatta and the many events planned by the cruising community to benefit the town of Georgetown.

There are boats that arrive in November and stay all winter, some boats come and go as they visit more remote islands south and then there are those who return each year for the regatta. There is a fully developed community of cruisers here in Georgetown, many of whom have been coming for 20 years. Each morning one can tune into the “Cruiser’s Net”, a volunteer run information network, on VHF 72 for the weather, local business and community announcements and events for the day. Swimmers meet 3 times a week on Honeymoon Beach, there is yoga on Sand Dollar Beach every morning, volley ball behind the Chat and Chill every afternoon, afternoon bridge games, a regular game of Texas hold ‘em, planning events for the Regatta, beach art groups and more. There was a sock hop last Saturday night and another dance planned for this coming weekend.

We are just becoming acquainted with all that is offered by the vast network of volunteers who put in place all the activities. There are folks here that we have met along the way from Deltaville, Beaufort, Charleston, No Name Harbor, Nassau and the Exumas. It is always a pleasure to look about and see friends we have met along the way. We are also just getting to know Georgetown where one can find fully stocked markets, laundry services, shops, restaurants, mechanics, church services, a clinic and a school. Children who live on islands in the Exumas can go to school near home up through middle school and then they go to Nassau to complete their high school education.

Apart from some extended time in Charleston, Key Biscayne and Nassau visiting, touring, provisioning and preparing for the trip south we have been traveling every day or couple of days since we left Deltaville on November 7th. We are planning to be in Georgetown for the next few weeks. I look forward to some extended time to get out my oil paints and settle into a more predictable rhythm. While I am learning to open to the possibilities of each moment, I do adore my creature habits and look forward to a little routine. We also look forward to a visit from Pat and Bim. Can’t wait to see friends from C’ville and to hear all the news!

Toward the end of the month we plan to head east to Conception and Long Island and then turn north to Eleuthera and the Abacos for April and May. In late May or early June we will turn to the east coast and begin our journey north to Maine before heading back into the Chesapeake in the late summer or early fall.

The photos shown are a few of the many fish and corals we saw on our travels, including the lionfish. I am enjoying my underwater camera, but, still not getting the hang of negative buoyancy for sharp, clear images. Chappell took most of the underwater pictures in the blog this time. He has a good eye and a steady hand. Of course my favorite fish are the ones wearing masks and snorkels.

Well that is all for now. We are experiencing a day of high wind and possible squalls so we are on Namaste for the day and I am about to get out the oil paints. Chris is studying for the ham radio test offered this Friday. With his ham license we will be able to get free email service, Windlink, on the boat through the SSB. I look forward to being in touch more readily.

Have a good day.

Peace and Love

February 7, 2009

Ahoy from Nassau,

How is everyone? We are doing great, enjoying ourselves, exploring, adventuring, dancing with the wind, sea and each other.

It is good to make a plan. That way there is some direction upon which to focus activity. On the other hand it is not good to attach too much to that direction or activity because we live in a constantly changing universe. Living on Namaste and taking this journey continues to magnify that truth.

We are back in Nassau for a couple of days. During our lovely week in Warderick Wells we realized that Namaste was due new house batteries. We also knew it would be easier to acquire the batteries here in Nassau than somewhere farther down the Exuma chain. Luckily we were able to get the exact same (almost) batteries on a shipment from Miami the day we called, resulting in a very quick and straightforward exchange (hopefully). And, Chappell and Betsy fly into Nassau today and are saved an extra flight down to Staniel Cay where we originally planned to meet them.

Nassau has been good to us. We ran into some friends from Deltaville and have made new friends as well. Chris was able to work out a problem with our steering. I completed some sewing projects begun in Deltaville and put aside so we could head south. We will also provision here where there are more fresh foods available. All is well.

We hear from the locals that the weather we are experiencing is unusually cold. While we were able to swim and snorkel in warm weather last week, we are in pants, sweaters and socks this week. Nassau Harbor is cloudy, choppy and chilly although that in no way dampens our experience.

When we began this trip I was so new to sailing and living with the wind. When the wind speed rose to 25 or 30 knots I had an immediate conditioned response of fear and anxiety. Is the wind too strong to sail, will our anchor hold? I would also travel down the road of What If for quite a long way only adding to conflicting emotions.

I am still new to sailing and wind at 25 knots is the norm. The Bahamas are quite breezy in the winter months. “Rocky” our Rocna anchor is the champ of anchors and gives us both a degree of security. I am practicing staying present rather than traveling down the What If road. I am finding a more relaxed and unburdened path in the present moment, in each moment that I can be aware and awake. The internal journey is as much of an adventure as the external.

We hope to head again down the island chain of jewels that is the Exumas tomorrow, this time with Betsy and Pell exploring along with us. If you are reading from Charlottesville, give Isaac a hug for us. And if you are in the eighth grade at Tandem, I will be thinking of you during Emphasis Week.

Included are some photos that did not load last time, the painted engine covers and the banaquit birds. There is also a photo taken of Chris and I with Dick the Dog who is famous in Key West for motorcycling, skateboarding, jet skiing and his very cool look.

Peace and Love