December 26, 2008
Key Biscayne
Hi, how is everybody? We wish you a very happy New Year from Namaste. Isaac, Chappell, Chris and I are happily anchored in Key Biscayne Bay just outside Noname Harbor, one of the many jumping off places to the Bahamas. We arrived in Miami on Sunday, December 21th.
On Tuesday December 16th Chappell, Chris and I took Namaste up the Cooper and Wando River to City Boatyard. We had Namaste put up in slings (raised the hull above the surface of the water) so Chris and Chappell could make a quick fitting change at the main through-hull. The boat was only up in slings for 15 minutes before they completed the work with no complications. Back in the water again we were at last ready to depart from Charleston and head for Miami. We spent one more night on the dock waiting for tide and current to favor our journey back down river and on to the sea.

We left the Cooper River through the inlet at Charleston Harbor late in the afternoon on Wednesday and began our journey down the Atlantic coastline. We planned to reach St. Augustine, Florida within 32 hours. As we approached St. Augustine weather continued to be in our favor and we decided to travel on to Cape Canaveral, another good inlet for us if the weather changed. At Cape Canaveral we realized we could make it all the way to Miami with calm seas and fare wind. As long as we hugged the coastline past the cape we could avoid the strong northerly current of the Gulf Stream. After four days and nights at sea we reached Miami Harbor at 2:00 in the afternoon.

Traveling down the coast was incredible! I had no idea what would await us during this new experience. We had deep, blue water instead of the shallow and shoaling channels that the ICW through Georgia would present to us. During one clear and starry night the water was so calm we could see the moonlight reflected in the water all the way to Namaste over an almost flat sea. The days were sunny and the seas turned to blue green as we bounded south. The nights were moonlit, clear and contained us within a dome of stars.

We each took 4-hour watches twice a day. I had the honor of the 4:00 to 8:00 sunrise and sunset watch, lucky me. Watches involved total diligence for the 4 hours that the safety of those aboard was in one’s hands. Scanning, checking course, the gauges, charts, scanning, observing, and scanning again with an ever-careful eye to the sea. With GPS and autopilot this work is all made easier and more precise than it was in years past. Still, being on watch requires a constant, careful presence. Our captain, Chris, was ever calm, present and diligent.

One evening as night was chasing day to the west and dark was beginning to overtake Namaste I looked to port side and saw something black and long, about 25 or 30 feet long, just catching the surface of the water. I wondered what is that? Is it a log floating in the water? That could be dangerous. But as I looked more carefully this “object” seemed more alive in the water than passive. I knocked on the cabin wall and Chappell came on deck to take a look with me. We watched as “it” seemed to gently push below the surface of the water and then rise again. We caught each other’s eye and simultaneously exclaimed “whale” just as it began a dive that revealed a full view of its flukes before disappearing altogether beneath the surface. Chappell checked the chart and realized we were traveling through a right whale habitat. What a treat!
Each day at sea brought new surprises of natural wonder. We saw sea turtles, dolphins, several Portuguese man-of-wars and bright pink jellyfish. We witnessed the illusion of the moon and sun traversing the sky from east to west with attendant fanfare and colors. Many times as we passed a group of dolphins they would take notice of Namaste and gracefully arc through the water to play at our bow. One day in particular a group of 6 or 7 dolphins joined us for 10 or 15 minutes. They gathered at our bow, gliding without apparent effort in our wake. As one dolphin would fall back another would soar up the side of Namaste to take its place with 4 or 5 others just under the surface of the water. It is one of the most purely playful acts I have witnessed in nature. With sheer glee, they rode our wake like an amusement park ride. A delightful moment for both the observers and the observed.

As we left Charleston and headed to sea I was filled with intrepidation. I was worried about our safety, even though we were fully prepared. I was anxious about the wind and the waves, even though all the forecasting suggested light winds and fare seas. I was in fear of the great responsibility of a watch and whether I could rise to the challenges presented. I was not sure I would enjoy traveling at night. I arrived in Miami a huge fan of traveling night and day on the open water. I fell in love out there. I trust our little ship to hold us safely and I trust myself to meet the challenges that lie ahead with gaining confidence and experience. I am certain life on the water will continue to present both internal and external challenges. But that is true for all of us no matter where we are in place and time, attitude and perspective. At each juncture I learn more about myself. Stalking that old nemesis fear is one of the keys to diminishing the anxiety. Just one more way to experience being on watch.

Isaac arrived Christmas Eve Day. We cooked a traditional dinner on board and are looking forward to left over’s this evening. We are happy to be spending almost two weeks together before Isaac needs to travel back to Charlottesville. In our ever-constant mode of fluid change Isaac has not booked his return flight. We are not sure whether we will be in the Keys, Bimini or perhaps all the way to Nassau in the next week or so. If the weather permits later this week we will set sail for Bimini, if not, we will go south into the Keys for the next 10 days. Either way we will be in warm weather surrounded by lush mangroves, white sandy beaches, turquoise water and most importantly the company of those we love.

I will write as often as our access to the Internet allows. I may use either email or the blog from here on out depending on the strength of the network I am using.

Again we wish you a very Happy Holiday Season! And, we think of you often.

Peace and Love to All

More time in Charleston

Hi Everybody! How are you doing?

I am sitting here on Namaste at the Maritime Center dock in the middle of a very dense fog drinking my morning coffee. The fog is real although at my age it could be in my head.

(I just had another birthday and am preoccupied with age.) We decided to spend more time in Charleston so that we can complete planned projects and fully provision the boat before we head to Miami.

With those things done all we need is good weather in Miami to send us over to the Bahamas.

The Charleston Maritime Center’s Marina has a very active presence in the community. It is the home of the schooner The Spirit of South Carolina. The Spirit is a 148’ replica of the schooner used in the mid 1800’s as a harbor pilot ship. It was built here on the grounds of the center over a 2-year period with private donations. It’s mission is educational and we have seen many groups of excited students from local schools board her while we have been here. There are 10 full time crew that live on board. They offer 15 different classes to students. During two seasons of the year they offer the day trips we have witnessed and the other two seasons they take students on extended voyages. They will be leaving with a group of 20 students for the Dominican Republic later this month. The crewmembers are kind, enthusiastic and generous sailors and teachers. We have enjoyed getting to know them. Docked forward of The Spirit is The Virginia. The Virginia was completed in 1916 and used as a pilot ship in the Hampton Roads area before it was privately purchased. The Virginia now has an educational mission as well.
Last Saturday we watched from the aft deck of Namaste as more than 40 boats lit up with Christmas lights paraded down the Cooper River toward the Battery and the Ashley River. The boats were bedecked with palm trees, flamingos, traditional Christmas trees and crew wrapped in lights dancing on the decks. The lights were reflected on the surface of the water adding to the spectacle of color. There was a live band playing on The Spirit for the evening. My favorite part of the parade was the flotilla of small boats that paddled by the marina. There were rowboats, canoes and kayaks dressed in twinkling lights like fairy boats. Very sweet and the folks on board were full of holiday spirit.

I love the visual sights in the city of Charleston. I have walked many of the streets between East Bay and King to the east and west and Calhoun and the Battery to the north and south. The historic architecture boasts examples of colonial and antebellum homes with regal Georgian gables and Greek revival columns. The gardens filled with jasmine, magnolias, tea olives, camellias, azaleas and roses are surrounded with ornate wrought iron fences and gates. It is a photographers paradise.

These lovely homes and streets have inspired many artists and their work is displayed in over 50 small galleries in the area. There are modern, abstract, realistic, impressionist, folk and Gullah artworks to be pondered and admired. I have especially enjoyed the vast and open spaces created in paintings of the low country.

We have enjoyed many evenings with Betsy and Chappell, dining at their home, on Namaste and in some of the great local restaurants. Like at home in Charlottesville, we are within walking distance of everything.

Chris has been installing the generator that we will use when at anchor to supply our electricity. This new system will allow us to economize on fuel and will give our 50 horsepower yanmar engine a longer life. While installing the generator, which required both complicated plumbing and electrical work, he found a frozen pipe fitting near our main seacock. In order to complete the last twist and turn of plumbing we are going to have Namaste hauled out of the water on Monday morning for about an hour while he fits the last pipe.

Change continues to be a theme upon the water. I am especially tuned into the idea of process at present. As an art teacher I constantly reminded my students that they could not always know or control the outcome of an artwork and they would benefit from being present for the process. It continues to be one of my great lessons as well. The threat of stormy weather, strong currents, unexpected setbacks in projects can create anxiety for me. I have to bring a great deal of conscious awareness to being present and trusting that all is well. I am learning to breathe and shift my focus to all the beauty and goodness that surrounds us each and every day here on the water. If that were the only thing I truly learned as a result of this experience I will be a better person for it.

We are so excited to have Chappell joining us on Namaste for the next month or so as we head to the Bahamas. He adds experience as a sailor and a great amount of enthusiasm to the events that lie ahead. He has equipped Namaste with all kinds of fishing gear. We now have two kinds of spears that are legal in the Bahamas and a fly and rod reel. He is exploring and acquiring the various kinds of bait we will need to catch everything from mahi mahi to bone fish. Chris and I are both glad he is able to join us. Isaac has a new position in Facilities Management at UVA and will be able to join us for 10 days or so around the holiday. We are looking forward to having Betsy join us for 10 days or so in January. What a treat it is to have our family join us on this journey. Lucky us!

Have a great holiday and I will write again soon.

Peace and Love