December 26, 2008
Key Biscayne
Hi, how is everybody? We wish you a very happy New Year from Namaste. Isaac, Chappell, Chris and I are happily anchored in Key Biscayne Bay just outside Noname Harbor, one of the many jumping off places to the Bahamas. We arrived in Miami on Sunday, December 21th.
On Tuesday December 16th Chappell, Chris and I took Namaste up the Cooper and Wando River to City Boatyard. We had Namaste put up in slings (raised the hull above the surface of the water) so Chris and Chappell could make a quick fitting change at the main through-hull. The boat was only up in slings for 15 minutes before they completed the work with no complications. Back in the water again we were at last ready to depart from Charleston and head for Miami. We spent one more night on the dock waiting for tide and current to favor our journey back down river and on to the sea.

We left the Cooper River through the inlet at Charleston Harbor late in the afternoon on Wednesday and began our journey down the Atlantic coastline. We planned to reach St. Augustine, Florida within 32 hours. As we approached St. Augustine weather continued to be in our favor and we decided to travel on to Cape Canaveral, another good inlet for us if the weather changed. At Cape Canaveral we realized we could make it all the way to Miami with calm seas and fare wind. As long as we hugged the coastline past the cape we could avoid the strong northerly current of the Gulf Stream. After four days and nights at sea we reached Miami Harbor at 2:00 in the afternoon.

Traveling down the coast was incredible! I had no idea what would await us during this new experience. We had deep, blue water instead of the shallow and shoaling channels that the ICW through Georgia would present to us. During one clear and starry night the water was so calm we could see the moonlight reflected in the water all the way to Namaste over an almost flat sea. The days were sunny and the seas turned to blue green as we bounded south. The nights were moonlit, clear and contained us within a dome of stars.

We each took 4-hour watches twice a day. I had the honor of the 4:00 to 8:00 sunrise and sunset watch, lucky me. Watches involved total diligence for the 4 hours that the safety of those aboard was in one’s hands. Scanning, checking course, the gauges, charts, scanning, observing, and scanning again with an ever-careful eye to the sea. With GPS and autopilot this work is all made easier and more precise than it was in years past. Still, being on watch requires a constant, careful presence. Our captain, Chris, was ever calm, present and diligent.

One evening as night was chasing day to the west and dark was beginning to overtake Namaste I looked to port side and saw something black and long, about 25 or 30 feet long, just catching the surface of the water. I wondered what is that? Is it a log floating in the water? That could be dangerous. But as I looked more carefully this “object” seemed more alive in the water than passive. I knocked on the cabin wall and Chappell came on deck to take a look with me. We watched as “it” seemed to gently push below the surface of the water and then rise again. We caught each other’s eye and simultaneously exclaimed “whale” just as it began a dive that revealed a full view of its flukes before disappearing altogether beneath the surface. Chappell checked the chart and realized we were traveling through a right whale habitat. What a treat!
Each day at sea brought new surprises of natural wonder. We saw sea turtles, dolphins, several Portuguese man-of-wars and bright pink jellyfish. We witnessed the illusion of the moon and sun traversing the sky from east to west with attendant fanfare and colors. Many times as we passed a group of dolphins they would take notice of Namaste and gracefully arc through the water to play at our bow. One day in particular a group of 6 or 7 dolphins joined us for 10 or 15 minutes. They gathered at our bow, gliding without apparent effort in our wake. As one dolphin would fall back another would soar up the side of Namaste to take its place with 4 or 5 others just under the surface of the water. It is one of the most purely playful acts I have witnessed in nature. With sheer glee, they rode our wake like an amusement park ride. A delightful moment for both the observers and the observed.

As we left Charleston and headed to sea I was filled with intrepidation. I was worried about our safety, even though we were fully prepared. I was anxious about the wind and the waves, even though all the forecasting suggested light winds and fare seas. I was in fear of the great responsibility of a watch and whether I could rise to the challenges presented. I was not sure I would enjoy traveling at night. I arrived in Miami a huge fan of traveling night and day on the open water. I fell in love out there. I trust our little ship to hold us safely and I trust myself to meet the challenges that lie ahead with gaining confidence and experience. I am certain life on the water will continue to present both internal and external challenges. But that is true for all of us no matter where we are in place and time, attitude and perspective. At each juncture I learn more about myself. Stalking that old nemesis fear is one of the keys to diminishing the anxiety. Just one more way to experience being on watch.

Isaac arrived Christmas Eve Day. We cooked a traditional dinner on board and are looking forward to left over’s this evening. We are happy to be spending almost two weeks together before Isaac needs to travel back to Charlottesville. In our ever-constant mode of fluid change Isaac has not booked his return flight. We are not sure whether we will be in the Keys, Bimini or perhaps all the way to Nassau in the next week or so. If the weather permits later this week we will set sail for Bimini, if not, we will go south into the Keys for the next 10 days. Either way we will be in warm weather surrounded by lush mangroves, white sandy beaches, turquoise water and most importantly the company of those we love.

I will write as often as our access to the Internet allows. I may use either email or the blog from here on out depending on the strength of the network I am using.

Again we wish you a very Happy Holiday Season! And, we think of you often.

Peace and Love to All